We made this traditional Roman dish to celebrate our discovery of how they get the hole in the middle of bucatini, revealed to us when we got a pasta press for our stand mixer.  It is not as deep a mystery as how they get the ham and cheese into chicken cordon bleu, but it had eluded us.

Bucatini all’amatriciana

1/4  lb. pancetta (or, if you have it, guanciale), diced
2 cloves garlic, diced
1 yellow onion, diced
1 tsp. red pepper flakes
1 tsp. dried thyme
1 28 oz. can plum tomatoes
salt and pepper to taste
pecorino romano, grated

In a heavy skillet, cook pancetta over medium heat until browned.  Remove pancetta and pour off excess fat.  Return to heat and add garlic and onion; cook until soft.  Add red pepper flakes, thyme, salt and pepper.  Crush tomatoes and add to sauce.  Reintroduce pancetta.  Lower heat and simmer 20 minutes or so.

Meanwhile, boil salted water for bucatini.  When bucatini is done, add a little pasta water to the sauce, drain the bucatini, add it to the sauce, stir in pecorino romano, and serve.